synopsis
Kalari, Kashmir’s indigenous cheese known as the “mozzarella of the mountains,” is gaining global recognition from Pahalgam’s Himalayan Cheese factory, blending tradition with sustainability while empowering local shepherds.
When you think of Jammu and Kashmir, what springs to mind? Snow-capped mountains, the spiritual serenity of Vaishno Devi, or perhaps the ever-alluring valley of Srinagar? But hidden in the folds of this region's scenic beauty lies a rich and little-known culinary gem — Kalari, a traditionally ripened cheese that could easily rival your favourite mozzarella or burrata.
Welcome to Pahalgam, a picturesque town set along the banks of the Lidder River, known not just for its postcard views, but also for being the best place in Kashmir to sample one of the world’s most unique cheeses.
Kalari: The Mozzarella of the Mountains
Often referred to as the "mozzarella of Kashmir," Kalari is an indigenous cheese made from raw full-fat cow or goat milk, primarily in the Udhampur district of Jammu. Locals lovingly call it “maish krej” or “milk chapatti” because of its flat, round shape and dense, stretchy texture. Mildly sour and delightfully gooey when sautéed, Kalari is a staple of street food culture across Jammu and Kashmir.
Traditionally, it is prepared by vigorously churning milk in an iron pot using a wooden plunger. Sour milk or curd is then added to separate the curds, which are hand-flattened and sun-dried in leaf bowls. Despite the sun, the cool Himalayan climate keeps the cheese moist inside — a signature feature of this artisanal delight.
The Kalari Kulcha Craze
On the streets of Jammu and Srinagar, Kalari is most famously served as a Kalari Kulcha — a crisp, golden-fried cheese patty tucked inside a fluffy kulcha, topped with chopped vegetables, and slathered with spicy garlic and chilli chutney. Think of it as the desi cousin of a calzone, only ten times more indulgent.
In Jammu, Singh Cafetaria at Udhampur’s Gol Market and Sham Lal’s 20-year-old shop in Dharamthal (selling a whopping three quintals of Kalari daily!) are local legends. But if you’re looking for an immersive cheese experience with breathtaking views to match — Pahalgam is your ultimate destination.
Pahalgam’s Hidden Cheese Haven
Nestled in this tranquil valley is the Himalayan Cheese factory, a small but mighty operation started by Dutch national Chris Zandee and managed by local shepherd-turned-entrepreneur Gulaam Hassan. The factory works closely with Kashmir’s nomadic pastoral communities — the Gujjars and Bakarwals — helping them improve milk hygiene, boost production, and sell cheese varieties that blend traditional knowledge with global appeal.
From classic Kalari to experimental flavours like walnut, cumin, mustard, black pepper, fenugreek, and chilli-infused Gouda, this is a cheese lover’s paradise in the mountains.
Cheese With a Conscience
What sets Pahalgam’s cheese scene apart isn’t just its taste but its heart. By empowering shepherd communities through fair trade practices and sustainable dairy farming, this initiative is turning a traditional Himalayan recipe into a globally respected, artisanal product. It’s food with a purpose — and it tastes like it too.
For those who can’t make it to the Valley, Himalayan Cheese also delivers across India. But let’s be honest — nothing beats biting into hot, melty Kalari with a view of Kashmir’s snow-draped peaks and a handful of fresh mountain apples.
So, the next time someone says India has only paneer to offer, tell them about Pahalgam’s cheesy secret. Because this isn’t just dairy — it’s heritage, it’s innovation, and it’s utterly delicious.