Face Oil or Serum, what and how do I choose? Dermatologists decode

We spoke to Col (Dr.) Aradhana Sood M.D, DNB (Dermatology) Consultant Dermatologist and Cosmetologist Manipal Hospital, talked about the difference between a face oil and serum. 

A good skin care regime starts with understanding one’s skin type and its unique needs. Dermatologists recognize five major Skin Types - Oily, Dry, Normal, Combination and Sensitive skin, each requiring different types of care.

To know your skin type you can carry out this simple test- Wash your face and dab it dry. After 15 minutes press a tissue to different parts of your face. If the tissue paper picks up oil in all parts and gets blotchy you have oily skin. If it does not get blotchy and the skin feels stretched it indicates dry skin. 

In combination skin, the tissue will pick up oil only from the T- Zone of your face. Sensitive skin tends to be dry and is prone to rashes. 

People with normal skin have a smooth and even skin tone and tolerate most skincare products well. Dry skin lacks natural moisture and may chap in winters. People with dry skin need adequate hydration, avoidance of harsh soaps and use of oil-based products. 

Oily Skin is prone to Acne due to excess production of sebum. Salicylic Acid / Tea tree oil/ based face washes can be used reducing the oil. Use of water or gel based moisturizers and sunscreen is recommended. 

Combination skin requires an oil control regime in the T zone and normal skincare for the rest of the face. For sensitive skin, soap-free cleansers are recommended and a good moisturizer and sunscreen is a must. Fragrances and exfoliating agents should be avoided.

Difference between facial oils and serums
Serums are lightweight concentrated formulas, which are easily absorbed from the skin and act on specific aspects like acne, ageing, pigmentation etc. The active ingredients in serums have a small molecular size which allows them to penetrate deep into the skin and act at the cellular level. The common active ingredient in serums are Vit C, Vit A to brighten the skin, Alpha Hydroxy acids for pigmentation and exfoliation, Retinol for fine wrinkles and hyaluronic Acid for hydrating and plumping the skin.

Facial oils on the other hand are lipids extracted from plants and the formulations can have single or multiple oils. They have a large molecular size and remain on the surface of the skin forming a protective barrier, which helps the skin retain its moisture. They hydrate the skin and supplement the skin barrier but do not cause any cellular changes. Facial oils are not recommended for those with oily skin.