Prada Credits Centuries-Old Indian Kolhapuri Craftsmanship Behind Open-Toe Sandals Design Unveiled At Milan Show

The Kolhapuris, sold for as little as $12 a pair in Indian streets, take their name from the namesake city in India’s southern state of Maharashtra.

Italian luxury brand Prada found itself in a pickle last week after its Spring-Summer 2026 collection sparked controversy thousands of miles away in India.

The footwear in the collection, showcased at a Milan fashion show, was of a design strikingly similar to an open-toe leather footwear known as the 'Kolhapuri chappals.'

Prada's omission of acknowledgment about its design inspiration drew severe backlash online, leading to a group of artisans protesting and complaining to the chief minister of India’s Maharashtra state, home to the namesake city where that footwear is made.

On Friday, Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the controversy and acknowledged that the company's footwear drew from the Kolhapuris.

“We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear with a centuries-old heritage. We deeply recognize the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship," Lorenzo Bertelli said in a letter to the protesting group, according to Indian news agency PTI.

Prada is also open to a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans," and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote.

The Kolhapuris, which are available in Indian street markets and commonly worn by men of all ages, cost approximately $12 a pair, according to Reuters — significantly cheaper than Prada's footwear. 

Notably, the Kolhapuri leather sandals were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, which entitles them to a similar reputation as Champagne from France or Tequila from Mexico.

Another politician from Maharashtra's neighboring state also weighed in on the latest controversy. Karnataka Rural Development and Panchayat Raj Minister Priyank Kharge has called for stronger support and visibility for local artisans.

"This Prada episode reminds us: GI tag recognition isn't enough. Cultural entrepreneurship matters," he posted on X. "We need to invest in skilling, branding, design innovation and global market access for these artisans." He also stressed on the importance of investment in skilling, branding, design innovation, and global market access.

The controversy comes amid a period of expansion for the Italian luxury brand. Prada recently acquired Versace from U.S.-based Capri Holdings in a $1.4 billion deal. 

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