
Scientists at Cornell University have engineered the darkest wearable fabric ever created, a breakthrough that blends cutting-edge nanotechnology with natural inspiration. The material absorbs an astonishing 99.87% of incoming light, reflecting only 0.13%—a level that officially classifies it as “ultra-black.”
This remarkable textile began as plain white merino wool. Researchers first soaked the fabric in polydopamine, a synthetic form of melanin, ensuring the dye penetrated deeply into every fibre instead of simply coating the surface. This formed the foundation for the fabric’s extreme darkness.
To achieve the ultra-black effect, the team then placed the fabric in a plasma chamber, where it developed nanofibrils—microscopic spike-like structures. These tiny formations scatter, trap and redirect incoming light, preventing it from escaping. Tests revealed that the fabric maintains its ultra-black appearance even when viewed from angles up to 60 degrees, outperforming commercially available ultra-black materials.
While the fabric is exceptionally dark, it does not absorb as much light as Vantablack or MIT’s carbon-nanotube foils, which capture 99.995% of light. However, those materials are rigid and unsuitable for clothing, whereas Cornell’s textile is breathable, flexible and wearable—the first of its kind.
Beyond fashion, this fabric shows promise for solar thermal devices, optical engineering, infrared camouflage, and high-precision imaging. Its ability to trap light while remaining air-permeable gives it an advantage in applications where temperature control and comfort matter.
The inspiration for the project comes from the magnificent riflebird, native to New Guinea and Australia. The bird’s velvety plumage absorbs light using melanin combined with specialised microscopic filaments. Cornell scientists recreated this natural design by pairing a melanin-like dye with nanoscale texturing.
To demonstrate its capabilities, Cornell graduate Zoe Alvarez created a strapless dress using circles of the ultra-black fabric alongside iridescent blue accents—mirroring the riflebird’s contrast. Even with adjustments in brightness, hue, or vibrance, the ultra-black portions remained unchanged.
Published in Nature Communications, the study shows that a standard natural fabric can be transformed into something that behaves almost like a wearable black hole—soft, durable and ready for real-world use.